After thirty eight years the stills at Brora Distillery have finally been re-ignited, signalling a new era for the ever popular distillery. Clynelish Distillery continues to be a power house in the production of Johnnie Walker Whisky, and both distilleries are well worth a visit (if you can) to show the juxtaposition between small batch old world whisky (Brora) and new world mass production (Clynelish).
Clynelish Brora Distillery History
In 1819 Clynelish Brora Distillery was established by George Granville Leveson-Gower, then Marquess of Stafford and his wife, Elizabeth Leveson-Gower, the Countess of Sutherland. Elizabeth was born to the Earl of Sutherland and inherited it all at the ripe old age of 1 when her father and mother died suddenly. Upon her marriage to George, he took control of her estates (though not ownership) and together they devised means of deriving income from them, establishing many new businesses such a coal mine, brick and tile works, weaving and salt panning, as well the distillery. Whisky production would increase the profits on the barley they were producing, and they could utilise the coal they were mining nearby as fuel.
Clynelish Brora Distillery
Another of their money making ventures was to populate the lands with sheep, and in the process, evict the existing inhabitants. Clynelish, like Talisker, is a clearance distillery. The Sutherland’s oversaw the most brutal of the Highland Clearances. Their agents/factors burned whole villages, including one elderly woman who refused to leave. They wanted to ensure that the people could not return to their homes. Clynelish Distillery is in the heart of Sutherland – a mere 5.8 miles / 9.4 km from Dunrobin Castle, Clan Sutherland’s home since the 1400s.
From 1814 to 1820 roughly 15,000 inhabitants (3000 families) were evicted from around 794,000 acres of land in Sutherland and Caithness further to the north. The families were expected to move to the coastline, an area of approximately 6000 acres, for which the Sutherlands charged a rent of 2s 6d per acre. They had little choice but to work in the new businesses the Sutherlands had set up.
Despite their efforts, and the abundance of cheap labour, Clynelish was not initially profitable, and its first licensee James Harper went bankrupt in 1827.
By the time of Alfred Barnard’s visit around 1887, Clynelish was well and truly back in business. Barnard notes “the demand for it … has become so great that the firm have for some years been obliged to refuse trade orders”. Clynelish was being sold only as a duty paid product to private customers, not under bond “and the whole stock is thus available for the ordinary business of the firm”. Annual output was 20,000 gallons / 76,000 litres from the two stills. At the time there were three granaries, two malt barns, one kiln (using only peat), four washbacks and one 13ft diameter/3ft 6-inch deep mash tun. Barnard also notes that they were no longer using Brora coal as fuel it was of such low quality. 1
Johnnie Walker Whisky
In 1896 Clynelish was acquired by blenders Ainslie & Heilbron, in partnership with John Risk. Risk purchased Clynelish outright in 1912 and worked very closely with John Walker & Sons. It has proved to be an enduring relationship, as 95% of Clynelish today is used to make Johnnie Walker whisky. DCL acquired both Clynelish and John Walker & Sons in 1925 and still retain ownership under the banner of Diageo.
DCL closed the distillery down during the 1930s and did not resume full production again until 1960. By 1967 the need for Clynelish was so great that DCL build a second much larger distillery on the site, also named Clynelish. The original site was to be retired; however, drought on Islay was affecting production at DCL’s Port Ellen and Caol Ila sites. There were concerns of peated whisky shortages for blending, so after a brief refurbishment, the original site was restarted and renamed Brora. Brora continued making spirit (peated and unpeated) up until the early 80s when demand fell, and so did Brora’s usefulness as a distillery. In 1983 the stills at Brora were once again shut down.
Clynelish on the other hand prevailed, and an expansion/refurbishment was completed in 2017/2018. Clynelish’s former copper-top mash tun is now a beautifully repurposed bar at the (also Diageo owned) Blair Athol distillery in Pitlochry.
Samples from various Clynelish and Brora casks, including Clynelish 1975 Hogs Head Refill (Dewars), Clynelish 1980 Hogs Head Sherry Cask, Brora 1972 Butt Sherry Cask (Haigs) and Brora 1975 Butt (Johnnie Walker)
Resurrection
In October 2017, Diageo announced that they would re-open Clynelish Brora Distillery (along with Port Ellen Distillery on Islay). Production at Brora Distillery commenced again in 2021. Tours of the distillery are still available, though unfortunately now quite limited, as it is a beautiful example of an older distillery.
Brora 1977 cask - very few of these remain on site - however stock should increase substantially now that Brora Distillery has re-opened.
Brora Whisky
Until the new-make spirit has had sufficient time to mature (at least 2024 but more likely a lot later) you’ll find it difficult to acquire any Brora bottles other than on specialist sites, for a considerable sum, given the stills have been silent since 1983. Brora whisky was often heavily peated, unlike its sister distillery Clynelish, which has only a whisper of peat.
Clynelish Whisky
Clynelish 14yo used to be one of my favourite whiskies – it’s a slightly sweet, slightly salty (‘maritime’) dram with quite a lot of complexity – hints of toffee, spices and honey.
95% of the whisky made at the Clynelish Distillery is sent off for blending into Johnnie Walker.
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While recent releases may have lost a bit of their historical flavour profile (which is a bit sad as the Clynelish 14 of old is a personal favourite), there is still complex spiciness, pineapple, cereal driven, fresh, clean, peppery ginger, though missing the waxy-ness of yesteryear. Hopefully we will see some more non-chill filtered releases in future (because they are good!). Try and get your hands on some independent releases if you can.
Where Are The Clynelish & Brora Distilleries
The Clynelish & Brora Distilleries are 58 miles / 94 km north of Inverness, along the A9.
Driving : You’ll notice the town of Golspie first, and then Dunrobin Castle (the home of Clan Sutherland since the 1400s). Pass through Brora, turn left at Clynelish Road and follow the brown signs to the distillery.
Public Transport: Clynelish Brora Distillery is relatively accessible by public transportation, being a 1.2 mile / 1.9 km walk from Brora Train Station. For train times see http://www.travelinescotland.com
Clynelish Distillery Tours
Clynelish Distillery is open for tours 7-days a week.
Clynelish Flavour Journey
Guided, full-sensory tour of Clynelish Distillery followed by a tutored tasting and whisky highball. £21 per person and 105 minutes duration. Online bookings for the Clynelish Flavour Journey are available. Children aged 8-17 years are permitted on the Flavour Journey, and tickets are £9.50.
Clynelish Process Tour and Premium Tasting
A guided tour of Clynelish Distillery with a tutored tasting of three (3) exclusive Clynelish single malts. £35 per person and 60 minutes duration. Online bookings for the Tour and Premium Tasting are available. Children aged 8-17 years are permitted on the Process Tour, and tickets are £8.
Clynelish Express Tasting
A tutored tasting experience of three (3) drams of whisky (no tour). £17 per person and 45 minutes duration. Online bookings for the Clynelish Express Tasting are available. Adults only (18+).
Brora Distillery Tours
Brora Distillery is open for tours on a restricted or on request basis.
Brora Awakened
An expertly guided tour of the newly restored Brora Distillery followed by a warehouse tasting of limited edition Brora whiskies. 90 minutes duration and £225 per person. Minimum 2 persons per tour, maximum 10. Brora Awakened tours are only available once a month and must be booked in advance.
The Eras of Brora
Five hours duration and £450 per person (minimum 2 persons). Explore the past, present and future eras of Brora - guests will help craft the Brora spirit as they stand side-by-side Brora’s craftspeople of today as they go about their careful work to lay down casks for maturation. Journeying through tastings of new spirit and samples distilled almost half a century before, the visit culminates with a private tasting of fleeting moments of Brora’s storied past in the Brora Triptych.
These three distinct styles from Brora’s storied heritage are brought to life within the walls of those buildings, suspended in time, that have protected its spirit. The Brora Triptych tasting is an ode to the past and a promise of Brora’s commitment to continue this legacy for generations to come. This experience includes: a 3 course lunch of contemporary Scottish cuisine using local ingredients; tastings of Brora Triptych and additional limited edition Brora expression, in addition to a guided new make spirit nosing. Exclusive Bottling available only from Brora’s restored home subject to availability.
The Eras of Brora tour is available once a month and must be booked in advance.
Clynelish Brora still room prior to renovations.
What else is nearby
Accommodation
There are a large number of accommodation options in Inverness. The following is well known for its proximity to whisky bars:
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Centrally located, Highland Apartments by Manlsey offer the ultimate in modern luxury and comfort, with lifts (elevators) to all floors, secure private parking and free wi-fi internet access. Most apartments have balconies overlooking the town or the river, with Inverness Castle in the background. There are stunning views towards Loch Ness to the south and mountains to the north and west. It is an ideal location to enjoy Inverness' nightlife, including a short walk to The Malt Room, where you'll find over 200 whiskies and friendly staff to help you with a tasting.
If you're planning to travel with family or a small group of friends, Butter Shortbread is located in the heart of Inverness, and not far from The Malt Room:
This three-bedroom two-bathroom home has been featured by the BBC and is a shining example of Scottish hospitality in the city of Inverness. Step inside, and you'll find a cosy space with plenty of seating, ideal for flopping down with a glass of whisky at the end of a long day of exploring. The hosts have put great thought into every aspect of this home, from the luxury toiletries to the Bose speaker systems in every bedroom and the extra-large bathtub where you can soak in perfect peace. You're just a few steps away from the banks of the River Ness, and Inverness Castle is less than five minutes away from your front door, along with a range of shops and restaurants in the city centre.
Brora Distillery (Pre-Renovation) Photo Gallery
Clynelish Brora malt floors and pagoda stack
The Clynelish Brora distillery, malt floors on the left, showing the top of the pagoda chimney, and the still house on the right, showing the top of the furnace chimney.
The still room at Brora Distillery was behind glass for many years due to massive deterioration (closed 1983) but has since re-opened after considerable restoration by owners Diageo.
The still room at the Brora Distillery was a hazard and behind glass for many years, prior to its restoration. Brora had one pair of stills (1 wash, 1 spirit)
The original still room at the Brora Distillery had one pair of stills (1 wash, 1 spirit)
Brora Distillery warehouse casks. Brora was closed in 1983 due to decreases demand, but re-opened in 2021.
Clynelish Brora Filling Hose and Casks
Clynelish Brora spirit receiver vat, filling hose and casks. The vat held 16,406 litres
Clynelish Brora Distillery warehouse casks. Brora was closed in 1983 due to decreases demand (re-opened 2021). 95% of Clynelish is sent off site for use in Johnnie Walker.
Clynelish Brora Distillery
Clynelish Brora Whisky Distillery
Clynelish Brora Warehouses - Brora is the original Clynelish distillery site. Brora was closed in 1983 due to decreases demand but has since been resurrected. 95% of Clynelish is sent off site for use in Johnnie Walker Whisky.
Other Activities (Inverness)
Resources & Further Reading
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One of Amanda's favourite books. Around 1885, Alfred Barnard was secretary of Harper's Weekly Gazette, a journal dedicated to the wine and spirit trade. In order to provide his readers with the history and descriptions of the whisky-making process, Barnard decided to visit all distilleries in Scotland, England and Ireland. Accompanied by friends, he visited and sketched over 150 distilleries. This is a wonderful step back in time and a must have book for a whisky history geek.