Guide to Isle of Islay Distilleries

List of Isle of Islay Distilleries

How To Get To Islay

How To Get Around Islay

Islay a deceptively large island, especially when it comes to distances between the villages - they're generally too far to walk - plus there are almost no foot paths. There is a bus service, however it is infrequent and does not run on Sundays. That said, I spent two years living on Islay without a car, and you can definitely visit the distilleries without one. Hiring a car gives you the freedom to visit the whole of Islay (and it is beautiful and definitely worth a full tour), however, as driving creates some drinking issues (or drinking creates some driving issues) you may want to opt for a private car/taxi with a personal driver if you can afford it (and in a group this could be quite economical). If hiring a car, or booking a personal driver make sure you book well in advance as services are limited. If you're on a tight budget, a mixture of buses and walking will get you to most distilleries quite easily (just not on Sundays).

Hire Cars

There are two hire car companies on Islay. You will probably find it cheaper to hire a car off the island but you'll need to consider the cost of taking it on the ferry (plus having to book the ferry ticket for the car well in advance). I've used Islay Car Hire twice and had no issues - they have an online booking portal that makes it easy to reserve a car (make sure you book as soon as you know your travel dates as there is limited supply of vehicles to hire). 

Driving On Islay

If you are planning to drive in the Scottish Highlands and Islands (or Ireland too for that matter), please watch the following film. There is nothing more frustrating to the locals (and other drivers familiar with narrow roads) than a fellow road user who doesn't understand how passing places work. Also, if you're driving a motorhome or other slow-moving vehicle, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE pull over and allow other motorists to pass from time to time (it's good karma, I promise). Actually, if you're driving ANY vehicle, and there are lots of cars behind you but not in front ... please be nice and let them pass.

And yes, while driving on Islay, you will need to watch out for sheep on the road (and the occasional deer at night). Sometimes there are cows too.

Why does everyone wave on Islay?

The local drivers on Islay have a peculiar but kind habit of waving at oncoming motorists. It is not done just to confuse newcomers to Islay; it is an acknowledgement that you’ve been seen and noticed, and they’re saying hello. Return the gesture with a little wave of your own. A few fingers raised on the steering wheel is sufficient (though read Keith Savage’s tongue-in-cheek post about the meaning of different Scottish hand signals).

If you happen to be walking along the roadside (as I’ve done many times, as we lived on Islay without a car), you’ll also often receive a wave. Return the gesture, and say hello. The people of Islay are warm-hearted and welcoming, and little gestures like the Islay wave make the island remarkable and your visit memorable.

Taxis & Private Cars/Mini Buses

There are a small number of taxis and private car companies on Islay. These should be booked well in advance (especially if you need an airport or ferry pick up) as there are far more travellers than there are taxis and car services.

Public Transport (Bus)

Islay buses are infrequent and don't run on Sundays, which as both a tourist and a former resident, is a total pain in the arse. You'll need to plan your trips well if you plan on catching the bus because if you miss one, you're in for a long wait, or worse, you're stuck (and they stop running very early in the day too). The school timetable heavily determines the bus schedule, so many services won't run during school holidays (Saturday schedules apply during School Holidays).

For more information, see our post on Visiting Islay Without A Car | 5 Important Things To Know

Walking

If you're catching public transport, there's a good chance you'll probably end up doing quite a bit of walking on Islay (you'll definitely be doing a lot of waiting).

There is an exceptionally well-made cycle/walking path from Port Ellen to Ardbeg Distillery, passing Lagavulin Distillery and Laphroaig Distillery along the way. You can undoubtedly walk there and back again, but you can also combine walking with the public bus if you get your timing right.

I've walked from the Port Askaig road to Bunnahabhain Distillery - if the sun is even slightly shining, the view of Jura and the Sound of Islay is stunning. You'll be very exposed on a rainy/windy day, and I wouldn't recommend walking in poor conditions. I hitched a lift with a couple of other visitors on the way home again, so I didn't have to walk both directions (4 miles each way). Ardnahoe is nearly half the distance (2.3 miles) and better suited if you plan to walk both directions.

Caol Ila Distillery is an easy walk from Port Askaig (or see if the bus will drop you on the main road), and Bowmore Distillery is right in the centre of Bowmore (main bus interchange). 

If you're staying in Port Charlotte, then a walk to Bruichladdich Distillery (and home again) is a perfectly doable 2.6 km (Roddy and I have each done this many times). As of 2021, there is even a sealed bike/walking path between Port Charlotte and Bruichladdich, which makes life a lot easier than walking along the side of the road as we used to do!

We advocate hitch-hiking on Islay if you get stuck or run out of energy. I haven't hitched anywhere else in the world, but the Islay locals are accustomed to giving each other lifts, and your fellow travellers are generally empathetic to your plight.

Best Islay Accommodation

The Best Places to Stay on Islay depend heavily on what modes of transport you plan to use during your stay. Discover the top hotels and B&Bs for self-drivers versus those relying on taxis or buses in our Guide to Islay Accommodation.

Islay History

Islay Whisky Island Documentary

Islay Photo Gallery

References and Further Reading